If you go to the Wizards of the Coast site they have a forum dedicated to DotP and is broken down by year. There you will find a thread devoted to each deck...lots of information (and arguements) there. Yeah most seasoned players trim their decks down to 60 cards in order to pull off certain creatures and/or combos that the deck is based on. Although there are cases to be made for 61 or 64 card decks in DotP because you cannot manually add or remove land. 61 cards will give you an extra card without adding land and 64 adds three spells for only adding one land. Of course this comes at the cost of diluting combos and the possibility of not having enough land if you are running a mana intensive deck.
I think you can only do this if you haven't dragged the arrow, once that's donw you can't cancel it can you?
I don't know, to be honest. The tutorial teaches you to attack by tapping your creature cards, so that's what I've always done. Never dragged an arrow from a creature to the opponent. I didn't even know you could do that. But even when blocking, where you drag the arrow to the creature you want to block, you can cancel by simply tapping the card you are blocking with, so I imagine it all works the same.
So I have seen a lot of posts saying to stick to 60 cards max? How strict is this? I'm having trouble with my white Odric deck because all the cards are so powerful and each one I unlock I want to keep.
I have a hard time keeping it down to 60 as well but think I get some of the rationale to keeping things small as possible. It's all about control. If you put together a deck with 100 of the coolest cards, things could go amazing or you could start off with a hand of all 5+ mana cost spells/creatures. By keeping your deck size as small as possible, whichever card you need is likely only a few draws away. I think the one exception to keeping stuff small is either when you know you are going up against an opponent that will cause you to burn through your deck really quickly (lots of forced drawing and discarding) or if your deck contains a lot of searching cards (look through your library and bring out any desired artifact/creature/land).
This is a good question, and one that comes up fairly often. The basic idea is that while 2 cards might both be powerful, one of them is going to be more powerful than the other. By cutting the less powerful card, you have a higher chance of drawing the more powerful card. You also are going to get a lot more consistency out of your deck, since you have less variance from more cards. What really helps me when cutting cards from the deck is to look at how many of each card cost 1 mana, 2 mana, 3 mana, etc. This is called your mana curve. Ideally, you'll want to build your deck so you can cast a 1 mana card on turn 1, 2 mana card on turn 2, 3 mana card on turn 3, etc. This allows you to gracefully build up the power you have on the board. Cards that disrupt this flow are good ones to cut out. Another important aspect to deck building is focus. You certainly are unlocking some powerful cards, but do they actually help your overall strategy? When I play Odric, I go for a pure token swarm. To this end, I don't play with Dawn Elemental because even though it's a powerful card, it doesn't actually help my strategy. I would rather cast Captain's Call or Odric, Master Tactician on turn 4.
What you call "the boss card" isn't actually a boss card, instead is a particular new type of card, recognized as Planeswalker. In Magic, planeswalker cards aren't considered creature-like (they're planeswalker, in fact) and you may summon hem to help you during the battle. Planeswalkers comes into play with a predetermined amount of "loyalty" counters, and these counters are added/removed when you choose to use (only one skill at a turn, only when you may play a sorcery card) to use one of their related skills. For example, a certain planeswalker comes into play with 2 loyalty conters and have these skills listed in his card text: +1: Untap two target lands // -2: Put a green Beast token into play under yout control // -4: Until end of turn, creatures you control receive +3/+3 and trample. Now it's easy to understand that in order to reach the third (and always the most powerful one, that's for all planeswalkers) skill, you may need to use for at least two turns the first skill. There are other things I may explain that are related to planeswalkers, but it's advisable at this time to do some search on WotC website, I'm quite sure everybody can read these things explained in a better way than mine!
How do I play this game in the same room on two ipads? I have magic on both. But they both have my GC account on it. Do I need to completely wipe one Ipad, install the game as a new user, get a second GC account?
Go into the game center app and log out. Then log in with a different account, or create a new one. That should be all you need to do.
Nothing weird about it, because he's talking about its activated ability. Check the card again and I'm sure you'll agree: http://www.magicspoiler.com/mtg-spoiler/ring-of-evos-isle/
Played Magic religiously in a past life but never the digital version so I have some noob like questions: 1. Why for my profile is my mana color Green and how do I change it. I never liked green cards and want to change but don't see an option to do this. 2. If you buy unlock keys for a deck after the full game IAP does this unlock all the cards you could unlock via playing or are some still only a available by gameplay unlocks? Thanks and happy MTGing! Q
Thanks, I tried this. Now I have sent invites between the two ipads but it never connects. Just spins on the 'invite' part of gc. 'Waiting...waiting...waiting" I see both GC player names in the boxes, but no connection. So now that I have opened another GC account, Magic decks on the one ipad reverted back to two. Do I have to spend $10 again to enable both ipads to have all the decks?
1) The profile deal is simply based on the colors you play most, play another color deck and your profile preference will change accordingly. 2) The deck unlocks provide you nothing you couldn't get by winning some 20-30 matches with that deck. If you want to save some time unlocking cards and see some of the rarer cards in your deck as foil (totally meaningless but looks shiny), unlocks are the way to go. I have to say, as one who got Garruk's deck all unlocked in Steam as a free promo to those of us who already owned Planeswalkers 2012, it really takes a lot of the fun out of this game's single player campaign. It was kind of fun to take some gangly newly unlocked deck, and over several matches, slowly fine tune the deck with the newly unlocked cards to the beast it eventually becomes.
I'm not sure about the mana color profile question (I'm green also), perhaps it shows which color deck you used the most? The way the IAP works is that after you pay the $10 for the ability to unlock all ten decks during the initial campaign play through. Then you can either manually unlock the 30 cards in each deck by winning games, or paying $1 to completely unlock the deck if you don't feel like grinding. I myself ground out the unlocks on two decks but decided to pay the IAP on some of the other decks because I just wanted to play around in the Deck Manager
You're right, and my bad for not printing the full text of the card. Thanks for the link. As far as I know, this is the first time cards have activated abilities with the words "equipped creature gains ___ until end of turn" on them. What I discovered to my surprise was that this works in a fundamentally different way from "target creature gains ___ until end of turn". Target is set at declaration and the choice of target is stuck to the ability on the stack. The only way to affect the choice of target once it's on the stack is with cards (e.g. Willbender) that specially target abilities on the stack. Destroying the permanent with the targeted abliity will not. Equipped is determined at resolution and the ability on the stack is untargeted. Destroying the permanent with "equipped creature..." does keep the ability from resolving in the intended way. I expect there will be a ruling on this once the cards go live. I hope they decide that "equipped creature" is another way of saying "target creature equipped by this card". After all, the word "Equip" implies targeting, as it's short for "Attach to target creature you control". I don't like weird not-quite-targeted effects that bypass the targeting rules. But it does happen. If you use an Oblivion Ring on an Aura, then when you disenchant the Oblivion Ring the Aura can now "attach to"--not target!--a new creature of the aura's controller's choice, and because it's not "targeted", you can put it on creatures with hexproof, shroud, etc. that otherwise would not be valid targets of the spell. In my opinion that's a mistaken ruling and the aura should just go to the graveyard, but rulings are rulings. Edit: Since writing this I've been researching the rulings for the parallel expression "enchanted creature". It seems that "enchanted creature" is short for "target creature enchanted by CARDNAME" but I can't find any specific rule or ruling to that effect. Older cards used the targeted expression; newer cards read "enchanted creature". As far as I know, you can't destroy an enchantment with an activated ability referring to "enchanted creature" (e.g. Regeneration) and prevent the ability from taking place. I'm 95% certain the behavior of "equipped creature" in this game will be overruled to bring it in line with "enchanted creature".
It's really not that counterintuitive. Think of it as though the ring ability were a spell, and the card destroying the ring was a counterspell card. The counterspell would resolve, and the hexproof would never be applied. Since the ring ceased to exist before its turn to resolve came, its effect was never able to resolve. That's basic stack resolution.
Is there an online tutorial for a deck Building? I'm totally new to Magic, and would love some tips. (I still haven't figured out how to even use the Deck Manager.)
You can dig around the official forum for this game : http://community.wizards.com/go/forum/view/75842/134962/m:tg_-_duels_of_the_planeswalkers But honestly, there really is no deck building knowledge required. You are playing with prebuilt decks that are only minimally customizable. It's pretty much idiot-proof ... no offense intended there. As you begin to win and familiarize yourself with the game you can fine tune your decks to your liking but it is not something you need to do at the onset. Plus, unless you pay to fully unlock each deck (as opposed to winning to unlock cards one by one) you can't even customize anything in the beginning anyway ... since each deck starts with 60 cards which is the enforced minimum deck size.
How do you actually progress in the game? I haven't bought it yet, so it could be due to trial limitations. I've beat all the single players, and the placechase game a couple of times. I got 5/30 cards for each of the 3 decks available, but there's absolutely no information on what I should do now. I'm an old school player, so I knew everything there was to know up until around 5th edition, as I though the game was getting way too unbalanced.. I see it has gotten MUCH worse by now... The interface is somewhat fine, although there could be a few minor changes here and there to speed up the game for veterans. Especially the card selection scheme is horrible, when going through your library.
