I was using a PS3 controller for a while and recently got a CTRLi. I found the PS3 controller worked great a lot of the time, but occasionally I ran into problems with it seeming to lose calibration. For instance I'd be playing a driving game and realize that even with my finger off the throttle trigger it behaved as if the trigger was partially pressed. Same with the analog sticks. I did buy my PS3 controller used from eBay, so I'm not sure whether the problem was Controllers for All or the controller itself. I haven't had any problems like that with the CTRLi.
Is it just me or does anyone else's Asphalt 8 crash when loading a race while a controller is connected? (6+, 8.1.2, Steelseries Stratus XL) Also, I really wish Oceanhorn would give some functionality to the other buttons, besides to just bring up the menu to change your one action button out to something else. Like have boots always mapped to X, shield for R2, arrows for the right analog stick (i.e. Tilting the right analog stick would pull out your bow and aim in the direction you tilted, then you shoot when you release). Or a circular item menu accessible by the right analog stick, kinda like Legend of Zelda: Skyward Sword's item menu, or configurable buttons like the N64 Zeldas. I know adding functionality like that wouldn't work in the normal touchscreen interface (which I appreciate for its simple pick-up-and-play-ability--I really didn't have to spend a long time getting used to the action buttons cause there's only one, besides your sword). But when someone picks up a controller, they're already among the minority of iOS gamers who enjoy advanced control schemes and paid at least $50 for an MFi controller (or a PS controller + jailbreak tweak). They should get control schemes that take advantage of all of the buttons, not just directly map to touchscreen controls. And these menu schemes on Asphalt 8, Real Racing 3, Modern Combat 5, and so many others all suck to use, touchscreens and controllers alike (I know MC5 doesn't support the controllers yet, but I have no idea how I'm going to navigate that thing with a controller if and when it does). If I see another goddamn "tap here" "now tap there" "now tap here" tutorial, I'm fixing to tap some skulls. If your game UI was properly designed in the first place...
I am debating whether I should just get Mad Catz C.T.R.L.i or Horipad. I would like to get a controller that can do AurPlay with an Apple TV. Any advice from this forum? I just don't like the fact you have to put batteries in the Mad Catz C.T.R.L.i. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, DBrown
AirPlay is something that happens between the iOS device and the Apple TV (or a program on your computer)--the controller has no knowledge or impact on it. Your controls are sent to the iOS device via Bluetooth or Lightning. When AirPlaying, the iOS device generates video of the screen that it streams out over wifi. You can have either or both, they're not exclusive or dependent on each other. I have a MOGA Ace Power, Steelseries Stratus and Stratus XL. I ordered the Mad Catz C.T.R.L.i. and Micro C.T.R.L.i. as well (I ordered the micro on accident, first, when I think I wanted the full size one, but I'll keep em both for funsies). I will follow up with my thoughts on the Mad Catz when I get them. Can't speak for the Horipad. Personally, not a great big fan of controllers with built in batteries. They're too small, so I have to charge them way too much. That, plus they can fail. My Steelseries Stratus is now practically useless. It no longer holds a charge, and doesn't appear to even take one in the first place. Occasionally, it will turn on and connect to my phone and play games for a bit, then it will shut off, I'll plug it in to try to charge up, it'll repeatedly light up as if it's fully charged then immediately turn back off. The thing I like with AAs/AAAs is that you can use rechargeable ones and have a much better experience in just being able to pop a freshly fully charged set in to continue your marathon gaming session. I have a big stack of rechargeable AAs/AAAs which I use in everything - my Apple keyboard, mouse, trackpad, my Wii remote and wireless light bar, and once the AAs included with my Stratus XL die, I'll put a set in it too. I have a mix of Apple branded rechargeables, Duracell rechargeables, and Energizer rechargeables. They last a good long time, both in terms of between charges and how long I've had them. So, unless you're terribly averse to recharging removable batteries, I wouldn't knock a controller that takes em. I'll definitely take that over a tiny dead built-in battery that takes hours to recharge and can't recharge and play at the same time. Especially if it stops working entirely like my little Stratus did. That said, I'd rather get rid of batteries entirely and use wired controllers. Even the best wireless connection will always be laggier and more prone to failure than wired. But Apple won't allow controllers with cables, and the form-fitting ones only last one or two years depending on which phone or tablet you get it for. So, stuck with the wireless controllers for now, unless a Lightning extension cable could work... What intrigues me on the Mad Catz CTRLi is the general size of it, and the built in clip. I was never a Playstation or Xbox guy, so I don't have any preconceptions about how a controller should work or feel, I'm just looking for the most optimal setup to combine with my iOS devices.
Does anyone know if controller support will be fixed for dead trigger 2 in the christmas update? My ctrli came in a box advertising dead trigger 2 on the front, yet it still hasn't been fixed since they Broke controller support with the Halloween update!
I've been having problems with my Mad Catz full size CTRLi, to the point where I'm returning it to Amazon. When I first got it it worked well. The only thing I didn't like was that the analog stick springs were significantly stiffer than the Xbox and PS3 controller sticks I'm used to. After a couple of weeks though, it started to seem harder to make fine steering adjustments when I'd play a driving game, since it felt like nothing would happen, and then I'd move the stick a little more and suddenly it would steer too far. I noticed in the Mad Catz app that when I moved the analog sticks around smoothly, the app would show the sticks moving in little jumps. Same with the triggers. I also see the same thing in Game Controller Tester. Now the Pocketgamer review of the CTRLi makes sense to me. I'm guessing his unit behaved out of the box the way mine is behaving now It's gotten worse now, to the point where even if I'm not touching the controller, the app will show the triggers and analog sticks jumping around slightly. I noticed the same thing when playing games. In Phoenix HD, sometimes my powerup would fire off even though I hadn't pressed the trigger, due to these spurious signals from the controller. I'm returning my controller to Amazon, since I'm still within the 30 day return window. I thought of exchanging it for another identical unit, but since I didn't like how stiff the springs were even before it started misbehaving, I decided to just get a refund and try a different controller. Incidentally I went back to my PS3 controller with Controllers for All, and when I try that with Game Controller Tester everything moves completely smoothly in response to my inputs. I may just stick with that, or try the Moga Rebel next.
That's too bad! I'm still not experiencing any problems at all like that with my CTRLi and Micro CTRLi. Strongly recommend not getting the Rebel, though. Disconnects on iOS 8 are still a real problem. Stick with the Hori or Stratus XL
Hmm, maybe I just got a bum unit. I still haven't mailed it in, so I'll consider exchanging it for a different one instead of getting a refund. I still wish the spring tension for the sticks wasn't so high though.
I got the Steelseries Stratus XL from my wife for Christmas and it's superb. Highly recommend it. My iPad Air is on iOS 7.1.2 so I've never tried it on iOS 8.
I'm hoping someone here can help me, my CTRLi stopped updating halfway through a firmware update via the CTRLi app and now it's useless. It flashes like its pairing, however my iPad now says it's connected under the name "GameController" but it does nothing, it's not even recognised in the app. The power switch doesn't turn it off, so I have to take the batteries out to turn it off. I've tried plugging it in via USB to my Mac and turning it on, but it's just doing the same thing as it does on batteries and nothing is showing up on my Mac. I was absolutely loving it until this incident and I'm really annoyed as I'd love to be spending this free time playing through all of the iPad games I got on sale on my new Air 2. I've contacted Mad Catz via facebook, but their troubleshooting didn't go very far before they told me to email their customer support, which I've done, but still waiting a reply. I think the issue is plainly I need to force the firmware onto it but not sure if it's been broken to the point that it's not possible. The other annoying thing is I'm in Australia, so sending it back is going to be expensive and take a few weeks, my girlfriend bought it for me on Amazon and it took quite a while to get here. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
My controller which used to work fine, now will not even connect to bluetooth. I went to the iTunes store to perhaps download the app update and found some comments that indicated the firmware update broke the device. I have contacted support with no response. I may end up contacting Amazon as well since that seems to be the only recourse I may have. I am extremely disappointed at the lack of assistance from the manufacturer (MadCatz). I waited a long time to get this and now its unusable. OK, Ennis and others. I tested this on my old iPad that has been upgraded to IOS 8x. It connected promptly. So I think what happened is the firmware update doesn't work for IOS 7x. Which I am still annoyed about since I purchased the device based on it working with IOS 7x. Not all of my games are compatible with 8x which is why I have not updated yet. OY. My old device is an IPad 2 not an Air so I wonder if the Air is the problem based on your comments above.
If the problem with the CTRLi firmware for some people is that the update didn't complete, I wonder if it would be safer to use the USB update method instead of doing it over Bluetooth. The controller has a micro USB port, which the manual says is for doing firmware updates. I'm not sure how you're supposed to use it though.
Thank you fury for the response. I am debating with the Mad Catz CTRLi or the Horipad which I actually like the PS3/PS4 controller. Yes wired controllers would be the best for iOS. I am really leaning for the Horipad.
At the moment, I think it's safest not to update at all for the moment. Since mine has broken, I have tried plugging it into my Mac via the USB, but nothing happens. To the earlier poster, my one isn't related to iOS 8 as my Air 2 shipped with iOS 8. Still haven't heard back from them, but it is the holiday period.
Hey Ennis and everyone, I finally got the response from MadCatz and this solution WORKED! So give it a try and see if it works: Hello, I am sorry for the issue you are having with your CTRL I and would like to help resolve the problem. The simple solution to this problem would be to go into your phones Bluetooth settings, look under pair devices, and forget your CTRL i. If you see that your CTRL i isn't listed under paired devices then look for anything related to a controller, highlight it and select the forget option. Once this is done the next step to do would be to discover and repair your CTRL i with your iPhone. Reply with your results and have a happy new year!
That's great, I'm glad to hear un-pairing and re-pairing worked! Yes, when in doubt, you should always remove a problem bluetooth device and connect it again. Can't tell you how many times that works for me.
Anyone used any games like Street Fighter X Tekken or Marvel vs Capcom 2 with Controllers 4 All with a MFi controller? Any comments would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all, DBrown
